Where can you purchase ducting for the Ebac DD300 and DD200

Where can you purchase ducting for the above dryers?


The Ebac DD200D and DD300 are designed for connection to standard size ducts. Ducting may be purchased from a variety of dehumidifier suppliers and if a supplier specializing in dehumidifiers and related products carries these two models that supplier will usually carry suitable ducting.

Your submission did not include your location and I will assume you are based in the USA. An example of a supplier I can recommend in the USA is sylvane.com.

Tom (Webmaster)

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Crawlspace Dehumidifier Ducting

by Bob Sigler

I want to install a Santa Fe dehumidifier in my attached garage and run a discharge duct from the machine, through the common cinder block foundation wall into my crawlspace. The duct could possibly tee into two ducts to provide more equal distribution of the dry air. The single duct that would penetrate the cinder block would be about 22 ft. and each branch of the tee would be about 15 ft. The return duct would penetrate the cinder block and extend about 8ft.

I was told by a crawlspace contractor who uses the Santa Fe that ducting the machine would not work nearly as well as an unducted machine placed directly into the crawlspace. Having access to replace filters as well as other attention the machine may require is important to me as I can not crawl around under the house. I can understand a small drop in fan efficiency due to turbulence inside the duct but a large drop in overall performance escapes my understanding.

Can you tell me if the contractors statement is correct? I have about 1600 sq.ft. at 36 in. height and planned to use the Santa Fe Advance machine.

Thank you,


Hi Bob, thanks for your question.

It is clear from your question that you have no option other than ducting this dehumidifier. I share your view that there will be some loss in fan efficiency using the ducted option but this should be relatively small.

Therma-Stor, the manufacturer of Santa Fe Dehumidifiers, states that the Santa Fe Advance has these characteristics:

"Blower: 220 CFM without ducting
215 CFM with duct kit

Sized for: 2200 Sq. Ft. - Typical"

They further state:

"Optional Ductability: Attaching ductwork to the unit promotes air circulation throughout the crawlspace allowing for the location of the unit by the crawlspace access door for convenience. The unit may also be located remotely when space doesn't allow for placement in the crawlspace." (my emphasis)

The source of this information is:


This indicates that the loss in fan efficiency is marginal, that the circulation of air enables dehumidification throughout the whole crawl space area, that the size of your crawl space is well within the capabilities of this unit and that remote, ducted installation is an effective alternative to locating the unit in stand alone mode in the crawl space. Therma-Stor is a highly respected manufacturer of dehumidifiers with an impressive track record and there is no reason to doubt the information published on their web site.

Your crawl space does not have a large clearance and if the 36" you quote is consistent throughout the area the volume to be dehumidified is 4,800 cubic feet. Bearing that in mind these two customer reviews may be reassuring:

1. "I purchased this dehumidifier from Sylvane.com and I'm very impressed. My 1600 sq. ft. crawlspace was between 75 and 80% humidity with visible moisture on the vapor barrier, insulation, and hvac pipes. There was also a moist smell to the air in the space. I ordered the unit and received it in 2 days with free shipping, which is really impressive.

Installation was easy. I installed it alone, but a second person to help carry it would have made it a bit easier. Now, less than 24 hours after install, the humidity level is at 45% and all visible signs of moisture are gone. I was shocked and really happy to see these results this morning. My crawlspace is almost 7000 cubic feet so this unit must really be a workhorse to take care of it that quickly. Obviously, I highly recommend purchasing this unit. As long as you have a power source where you plan to install then anyone could do the install themselves. Put the unit in place, level it, turn it on, problem solved.

2. Purcashed this product based on previous reviews.1800 square foot crawlspace with some ceiling heights of 15ft. Using it as a compliment to a basement system encapsulation system, vapor barrier on dirt floors and closed cell insualtion on the crawlspace walls.Exchange air between crawlspace and basement central air. Works very well, is quiet and kept humidy levels constant and low for both floors. Saw immediate effects on reducing musty smell. Worked extremely well in the worst part of summer in GA humidty.

Source of customer reviews:


Please note that I have copied and pasted these reviews as published, including typos!

In my view any loss of efficiency arising from your chosen installation method will not be great enough to prevent the Santa Fe Advance from controlling humidity in your crawl space although any loss of efficiency will be reflected in higher energy costs.

From your question it is obvious that you would have difficulty accessing the dehumidifier in the restricted area of your crawl space and the only alternative to the installation solution you propose would be to get a third party to undertake the occasional maintenance, and any changes in control settings, which may be required. This may involve extra expense, or require asking a relative or friend for assistance, one or both of which may be unpalatable.

You have sought a second opinion and you may like a third. I would suggest a call to Sylvane, their number is 1 (800) 934-9194 and consultations about the products they sell are dealt with Monday - Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. EST. Their web site can be found at http://www.sylvane.com/. This company has a good reputation with its customers for the quality of its advice.

To reassure you let me state clearly that we have no direct affiliations with this company. Affiliate links are placed on this site to merchants of dehumidifiers and associated products but our link with Sylvane is restricted to affiliate links to Amazon.com who advertise their products as one of their approved suppliers. The only occasion on which we would benefit financially from a purchase made from Sylvane would be if our visitor clicked on the link from this site to Amazon and subsequently purchased from Sylvane through Amazon.

I hope this information is helpful and will make it easier to make the decision which most suits your circumstances.

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Dehumidifiers for Crawl Space
Ebac vs. Santa Fe

by J. Emma
(Asheville, NC)

Which dehumidifiers are better -- Santa Fe or Ebac?

The access to my crawl space is through my basement, then use a stepladder, about 7-8 ft. high to get to the crawl space, which is 750 sq.ft., but the cubic volume to be dehumidified is approx. 3000 ft.

The addition to the house was built over the crawl space, so it cannot be accessed from outside as it is completely covered with cinder blocks. The crawlspace pretty much aligns with my backyard on one side of the house.

I am told that I would need a dehumidifier able to extract 50 pints of moisture. Both dehumidifiers require maintenance, but Santa Fe's maintenance involves additional cost due to regular filter replacement. Also due to where the dehumidifiers would be sited, it is difficult to get up there to do regular maintenance.

I am also told that the unit should not be run during winter months, between November and March, and should be either covered with insulated material or just removed from the crawlspace.

For this reason, is there a way I can set the unit in the basement and duct it up to the crawlspace? Or does anybody have any other suggestions?



Hello, thank you for your question.

A dehumidifier with a daily capacity of 50 pints will be fine for your crawl space. I assume that the two dehumidifiers you are considering are the Santa Fe Compact and the Ebac CS60.

The advice that you have been given about removing the dehumidifier from the crawl space between November and March is correct; no dehumidifier commonly used in domestic applications can be operated in sub-freezing temperatures.

The main advantage of the Ebac CS60 is that it incorporates "hot gas defrost". This makes it more suitable for low temperature operation and it will be effective in conditions as cool as 33F/1C. The Santa Fe Compact does not have this feature but will still do its job at temperatures as low as 40F/4C. The Santa Fe unit is slightly noisier than the Ebac but this is due mainly to its greater water extraction power; 65 vs. 56 pints per day.

Your proposal to locate the dehumidifier in the basement is entirely feasible and this is possible with either unit as both are configured for ducted operation. I understand your reasons for preferring this type of installation and believe it makes complete sense in your situation. As the lowest temperature in Asheville in winter is typically just a few degrees below freezing I guess your basement seldom if ever drops to, let alone below, 40F which eliminates the principal advantage of the Ebac CS60.

While noting the additional maintenance cost you mentioned my recommendation would be to choose the Santa Fe Compact for the following reasons:

  • The Santa Fe Compact is a higher capacity machine. There will be some loss of effectiveness resulting from a ducted operation due to a slight reduction in the air flow volume but this will apply equally to both units. The higher capacity of the Santa Fe, around 15%, will compensate for this and ensure that the unit operates for fewer hours per day to maintain a given level of relative humidity.

  • The Santa Fe Compact is the more energy efficient of the two dehumidifiers and is Energy Star qualified; the Ebac CS60 is not. The energy savings will more than compensate for the additional maintenance costs.

  • The Santa Fe Compact is generally less expensive to buy than the Ebac CS60.

  • Both dehumidifiers have a one year limited warranty. The Santa Fe has an additional four year warranty on the sealed refrigeration system whereas the Ebac equivalent is for an additional two years only.

  • Accessories for the Santa Fe Compact, such as a ducting kit and, if needed, a condensate pump are available for purchase with the dehumidifier.

You may be wondering why the Ebac CS60 is beaten so comprehensively by the Santa Fe Compact in my evaluation. The reason is that the Ebac CS60 is designed primarily for industrial environments where conditions may be very demanding, on oil rigs and aboard ships for example. It is also designed to withstand the inevitable heavy handling it will get as a result of being transferred from one location to another. For its designed purpose it is an excellent dehumidifier but for your situation the Santa Fe Compact is tough enough and more economical.

One last point about crawl space humidity control of which you are almost certainly well aware. The crawl space vents must be sealed for the dehumidifier to work effectively or the humidity that the dehumidifier removes will be replaced from the outside air if that air contains more moisture than the air in the crawl space.

I hope this is helpful.

Tom (Webmaster)

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Ducting Dehumidifiers

by J. Emma
(Asheville, NC)

What type of duct is the right one if one chooses to duct the dehumidifier from the basement to the crawl space -- Flex, insulated metal, or metal? Keeping in mind the price factor, is one more suitable than the other? What are the pros and cons of each of these ducts? This would greatly help me in moving forward with the dehumidification of my crawl space.



Hello, thank you for your question.

The most important points are that the duct type selected should be UL approved and conform to any regulations applying to the area in which you live. Equally important is that the manufacturer's installation instructions should be followed precisely.

There is no significant reason for preferring flex duct or foil flex duct for a dehumidifier installation. The main difference is between insulated and non insulated varieties of duct.

Insulated duct will reduce the noise level from the dehumidifier which is a worthwhile advantage in itself. There are few if any precise indications from manufacturers in the printed instructions for installation of their dehumidifiers of the type of duct required except, in some cases, to mention the benefits of flex duct in reducing noise level.

For a crawl space installation flex duct will be entirely adequate. This is the type typically used for remote installations for crawl spaces. My own preference would be for insulated duct, either flex duct or foil flex duct.

I would also suggest that you also seek advice from the manufacturer of your dehumidifier. If you speak to a company representative and keep a record of the individual's name and details of your conversation you are in a stronger position should any problems arise, provided, of course, you have complied with her/his recommendation.

A major influence on the effectiveness of a ducted arrangement will be the quality of the installation work. If the installation instructions are followed correctly this should be within the capabilities of a competent "do it yourself" householder. The majority of users will, however, employ a professional and rely on that contractor's reputation and the nature of the warranty provided.

One additional point, not directly related to your question and of which you are most probably aware. As this is a remote installation you will need a remote humidistat, to be located in the crawl space. Without this the dehumidifier will cycle on and off in response to humidity levels in your basement rather than in the crawl space.

I hope this is helpful.

Tom (Webmaster)

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Whole Townhouse Dehumidifier

by Kristen
(Houston, TX)

I have a small (1285 sq. ft.) townhome that gets a musty smell at the top of the stairs, esp. in transitional seasons when the AC and furnace aren't running.

I live in Houston, TX, which has very humid climate. I get too cold if I have the AC thermostat set any lower than 78, but want to protect the home from mold, etc.

After much internet research, reading Consumer Reports, and asking sales persons at various stores, I bought a 50-pint popular brand unit two days ago and have it at the top of the stairs. My concern is that it keeps cycling on and off continually without taking a break. I know that warm air rises to the upstairs and am guessing that this continual influx of warm air is probably keeping the unit cycling on and off continually. (?) My question is: do I need a larger size unit because of this top-of-the-stairs placement of the unit?

The instruction booklet states specifically that this is not a whole house unit and should be used in an enclosed room. When I told the salesperson about this (after buying the unit and setting it up and reading the instruction booklet), he said that the 50-pint size was okay because it was running in an approximately 650-ft space (upstairs).

However, in researching prior to purchasing this unit, I read that if a unit cycles on and off continually it is probably not large enough for the space (upstairs plus warm air rising from downstairs) it is dehumidifying and will use too much energy.

I'm confused and no sales or "technical" people seem to know the answer. Can you help me with this question about what size unit I need and if I can place it at the top of the stairs?


Hi Kristen.

There are a number of observations I can make which may be helpful.

  1. The dehumidifier is, in effect, trying to control humidity throughout your entire house.

    Water vapor behaves like air in one respect. If you have a higher air pressure in one area than in another the pressure will equalize. Air from the high pressure area will move to the low pressure area until the pressure in the two areas is the same. The only way to prevent this is to seal off the low pressure area.

    In the same way if relative humidity is higher in one area water vapor will move from the high pressure area to the low pressure area until balance is restored.

    Warm air rises so the air at the top of your stairs will be warmer than in the storey below. Warm air holds more water than cooler air so the relative humidity at the top of your house is lower than at the bottom. It follows that water vapor will move from the lower storey to the upper, even without the effect of the dehumidifier. Since the dehumidifier is constantly reducing the relative humidity on the upper storey it accelerates this process.

    As your dehumidifier is at the top of the stairs the 650 square feet of your upper storey is not sealed from the equally sized lower storey and your dehumidifier is effectively operating in an area of roughly 1300 square feet.

    1300 square feet is a large area for a 50 pint dehumidifier to deal with and I must disagree with the sales person to whom you spoke and suggest that the unit you have been sold may not be large enough for the job.

  2. The dehumidifier cycles on and off as the relative humidity rises and falls in relation to the level of relative humidity programmed into the humidistat. If you have set a level of, say 50%, the unit cycles on every time this level is exceeded.

    When a dehumidifier is first switched on in an area of high relative humidity it may take some time to reduce that humidity to the setting programmed into the humidistat. Even a powerful unit, working in an area well within its capability, may take from a couple of days to two weeks to reduce humidity to the preferred level. During that time the dehumidifier will run continuously.

    You have had the dehumidifier for just a couple of days. If, after two weeks, it is still running more or less continuously, and still collecting significant amounts of water, it would be fair to conclude that the 50 pint capacity of the unit is not sufficient for the size of your house.

  3. The conditions in which you are operating the dehumidifier are more or less ideal for a portable home dehumidifier. These units perform optimally in warm, humid conditions. If your unit is running as it should the bucket will need to be emptied at least twice a day when it is running for most of the time. If your unit is collecting much less than this amount, less than a bucket in 24 hours, there is a high probability that it is faulty.

    The only circumstances in which this may not be the case would be if you had programmed the humidistat for a very low level of relative humidity, say 35%. Despite many portable home dehumidifiers having settings as low as 35% this type of dehumidifier struggles to reach such low levels. To prevent mold, and for your personal comfort, a level of 45-50% will be sufficient.

Bearing in mind these points my direct answer to your specific question is that it is not the placement of the dehumidifier (at the top of the stairs) that is causing the unit to run continuously. If, for example, you were to place the unit on the lower storey a big reduction in relative humidity at ground level would draw water vapor down from the upper storey, regardless of the upward flow of warm air. In all probability a 50 pint dehumidifier is too small and even a larger portable home dehumidifier may not be an ideal solution.

My advice to you, if you wish to use a portable home dehumidifier is the following:

  • Unless you believe the dehumidifier to be faulty run it for two weeks. If the unit still runs continuously it is too small for the area in which it is working.

  • If it is too small I suggest you return it to the seller and seek an exchange for a higher capacity dehumidifier. You may expect to pay an additional charge to cover the price difference. Your justification is the poor advice given to you by the sales person, for which you will have evidence; the fact that it still running continuously after two weeks.

A 70 pint dehumidifier will be more able to cope with the demands of an area of 1300 square feet but I cannot guarantee that even the larger unit will be sufficient to overcome the problem. The square footage quoted by manufacturers assumes no partitions. The walls dividing your house into rooms reduce the effectiveness of dehumidifiers and even a 70 pint portable home dehumidifier may struggle.

A more reliable solution although, initially, a much more expensive one, is a whole house dehumidifier. These units are placed in one part of the house, typically next to your furnace, and integrated with you existing HVAC ducting. The problem of dividing walls is thereby overcome. They operate, independently of your Air-Con, in response to changes in humidity. They are built to much higher quality standards and are more energy efficient than portable home dehumidifiers. The unit I would recommend for your size of house is the new Ultra-Aire 70H from Therma-Stor.

I can appreciate that the prospect of spending several times the price of a portable home dehumidifier may be unpalatable, even impossible. It would not be fair of me, however, not to recommend a solution that will work as opposed to one which may or may not be effective.

The alternative may be two portable dehumidifiers rather than one, using more energy and with working life-times of half or less than half that of a single whole house unit. In the longer term the whole house dehumidifier is almost certain to cost less than this alternative.

I hope my comments have been helpful.

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